What to do when PETG sticks to nozzle: A step-by-step guide

Is your PETG filament constantly sticking to your nozzle? This is a common problem that happens with most 3D printers. There are a few reasons why this might be happening. First, let’s try to identify where the problem is. Each possible cause of PETG sticking, curling, and warping will require a different solution. Several causes and solutions are outlined below.

 nozzle

Nozzle height, printing temperature, and bed adhesion

Do you need a special nozzle for PETG?

The best nozzles for 3D printing using a non-abrasive and low-viscosity hygroscopic material such as PLA, ABS Nylon, PETG, and TPP are brass nozzles or copper nozzles. Each printing filament has its own different properties and therefore requires a different nozzle.

Using different types of filaments with different nozzles can drastically change the quality of your print.

Nozzles are made of a variety of metals (brass, copper, steel). Different metals wear down at different speeds when using abrasive fibers. The downside of a brass nozzle is how rapidly it wears when using abrasively-molded fibers such as carbon fiber, glass fiber, and metal filaments. If your nozzle wears down, it will eventually affect the printing accuracy of your 3D printer.

What is the best nozzle temperature for PETG?

If your filament sticks to your nozzle, the problem might be with your nozzle temperature or your PETG filament temperature. PETG filament is usually printed using a nozzle temperature of 450–480 °F. Usually, the PETG spool will have instructions about the best temperature to set your nozzle to. Different printers will likely require different temperature settings.

The printing temperature for the first layer should normally be set to 450 °F. For the rest of your layers, set your nozzle temperature to be gradually lower. As with ABS, PETG also needs to be heated at a temperature much higher than PLA. Generally, the PETG filament temperature should be between 420 °F and 480 °F.

Is the nozzle at an appropriate distance from the bed surface?

Nozzle height and bed adhesion are some of the common factors that can lead to PETG sticking, causing a clogged nozzle. If your filament sticks to your nozzle, adjusting the distance of the nozzle from your print bed might help. Depending on the type of printer you’re using, you can either adjust the nozzle distance manually or when calibrating your printer settings.

It’s possible to re-adjust the nozzle height while bed leveling. This is done by calibrating your 3D printer settings. Instructions for changing the height of your printer’s nozzle should be included with your printer, most likely in the bed leveling section. The recommended nozzle height setting for PETG is around 0.1 mm. You can also measure nozzle distance using a piece of paper.

You may also be interested: How to paint PLA on one’s own

Is your filament sticking to your print bed?

During the printing process, your first layer of PETG should always adhere firmly to your print bed; otherwise, it can result in filament curling and sticking to the nozzle. Lack of bed adhesion in the first layers is one of the most common causes of a failed print. In addition to nozzle height, poor bed adhesion can also lead to your filament sticking to the nozzle.

The first thing to do is check your bed leveling. If your bed is properly leveled, the problem might have to do with bed adhesion. To ensure that your first layer of filament sticks to the print surface, you can get better adhesion by adding an adhesive material that is different from the filament material to your build surface, such as a simple glue stick.

Different materials should be used for different filament types. If you use the same material as your filament to increase bed adhesion, it may cause your filament to fuse to your 3D printer bed, making it impossible to remove. Always check to make sure the material you use to increase your printer bed’s adhesiveness is safe by testing it on a piece of your chosen filament.

READ ALSO: Acetone smoothing PLA prints – finish with visible layer lines

Do I need an all-metal hot end for PETG?

In most cases, PETG requires an all-metal hot end in order to tune the PETG filaments. This additive is sometimes crucial in perfecting the accuracy of your 3D printer every time. Even though a successful print still might be achieved using an all-metal hot end at a temperature of 280 °F, the ideal temperature is considered to be 260 °F and guarantees the best results.

Now that you know how to prevent future nozzle blockage, let’s look at the different ways to clean an already-jammed nozzle.

If there is excess material blocking the end of your nozzle, here are some ways to get that melted filament out:

  1. Use a wire brush.
  2. Try the cold pull method.
  3. Use a heat gun.
  4. Use acetone.
  5. Use a long needle.

Is your filament sticking to the nozzle tip even after you used the recommended printing temperature, adjusted the distance between the nozzle and your build surface, and used an adhesive material to improve bed adhesion? Don’t panic! We’re not done yet. There are still a few more reasons why this might be happening. Try one of these solutions instead:

Dehydrate your filament and increase your fan speed

Your filament sticking to the nozzle might be due to excess moisture. Moisture can gather on your printing material if the space you use for printing isn’t properly ventilated. However, even with proper ventilation, sometimes wet filaments are unavoidable. If left exposed for too long, 3D printer filaments will eventually gather moisture. A wet filament can cause a nozzle jam.

A good way to keep your filaments dry is by storing them in vacuum-sealed plastic bags and using desiccants such as silica gel. Try to keep your filaments in a dry area. If your filaments already contain moisture, you can dry them in an oven, using a hair dryer, or a dehumidifier. If excess moisture is a recurring issue for you, consider purchasing a filament dryer.

If you want your PETG prints to cool more quickly, be sure to keep your fan off for the initial layers but make sure to set it at a lower temperature than normal when turning it back on. If your filament cools too fast, it will cause warping even if the first layer sticks to your 3D printer bed. Keeping a cool fan will ensure that your print turns out as accurately as possible.

Slow your printer down

When printing PETG, another reason why your filament might be sticking to the nozzle is if your print speed is too high. Printing too fast might cause the filament to harden before it can adhere to the 3D printer bed, resulting in some of your print material sticking to the nozzle.

This can be fixed by adjusting your print speed settings during the printing process.

Adjust your printer settings to a lower speed for the first few layers to ensure proper layer adhesion. After the first layers have adhered to your build surface, you may gradually increase the printing speed. Check to make sure your print is coming out accurately during this process. After a few tests, you’ll be able to determine the best speed for your 3D printer.

Change your printer bed

There are many types of 3D printing surfaces available. Perhaps the most widely known are glass bed surfaces and heated bed surfaces. Bed temperature is also an important factor in every PETG print. Some beds allow you to adjust the temperature of the printing surface manually as needed. A good printing bed makes bed leveling much easier as well.

One of the main advantages of using a glass bed is how flat it is. Perhaps the 3D printer bed that came with your device is not as flat as it should be, or it’s made from low-quality materials that will easily bend at the sides with repeated use over time. Fortunately, you don’t have to use the printer bed that comes with your device. You can just upgrade to a better one.

High-quality glass beds are flat and durable. They also make it easier to remove your 3D after they have finished printing. Although one of their main problems is the lack of settings for adjusting bed temperature. Of course, your ideal printing bed still depends on what exactly you want to print. A glass printer bed ensures that the bottom of your print is flawless.

Another option for a good 3D printing surface is a heated bed. Heated printer beds are beds with their own heat settings that can help to increase the rate of material flow and reduce stringing. When used properly, they can also improve adhesion. When using a heated print bed, carefully read the instructions and use the recommended temperature for your bed.

By keeping your print bed at the right temperature, your filament will not warp when touching the cold bed surface and stick to your nozzle. Always pre-heat your print bed before you start the printing process to maintain consistent layer adhesion, resulting in successful prints. Make sure to keep your build surface clean and free of scratches. You can clean your build plate using high grit sandpaper.

Adjust your extrusion multiplier settings and do a test run to fine-tune your print settings

Your filament may be warping due to under-extrusion or over-extrusion. Over-extrusion causes stringing, blobs of filament, and sometimes uneven layers, while under-extrusion can lead to gaps in the print, missing layers, and poor bridging between layers. If you think this might be the problem with your printer, try adjusting your settings to maintain consistent extrusion.

A simple test print can do wonders to help you find the perfect settings for printing PETG. Try printing a thin layer of just PETG plastic to test the flow rate of your print and identify where the issue might be. Adjust your nozzle height, layer height, and retraction settings where necessary. Perhaps you’re using too many filaments, or perhaps you need more filament.

How can I make PETG support easier to remove?

This is another frequently asked question where PETG is concerned. Generally speaking, the longer the PETG support, the easier it is to move. However, increasing its length may also reduce its surface area and effectiveness. The values for PETG support lengths in terms of X/Y should be in-between 0.45 mm and 1.75 mm according to recommendations of 3D printing experts.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this article has helped you with your 3D printing problems. When coming across user difficulties during the process of 3D printing (a very complicated hobby!) it’s always best to do proper research before attempting to solve them manually. We hope all of your questions about PETG filaments have been answered in the above text. Happy 3D printing!

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